• Orsan - Dubrovnik

Located on the harbor of Gruz Bay across from the cruise ship terminal, Orsan serves fresh seafood and wine from the nearby Peljesac Peninsula. Go for a long lunch.

  • Gradska Kavana Arsenal - Dubrovnik

It's hard to say what's more compelling about this romantic Old Town restaurant: The views (a historical trifecta of fortress, port, and city walls) or the food (the freshest seafood, the local wines). Mull it over between bites of sea bass and sips of a Croatian sauvignon blanc on one of the two terraces.

  • Karmen Apartments - Dubrovnik

Ultra-friendly Marc van Bloemen's Old Town inn has four comfortable full-service apartments that will make you feel like Dubrovnik is home. Most have views of the old harbor and the city walls. From $90

  • The Swan Atelier - Sibenik, Croatia
  • Bled Castle Restaurant - Slovenia
  • Hiša Franko - Kobarid, Slovenia

I would recommend chef Ana Roš’ restaurant for the journey there alone. Whether you’re traveling from the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana or crossing the nearby border with northern Italy, the drive through the fairyland mountain scenery of Slovenia’s Soča Valley is likely to be one of the most memorable of your life. The “Emerald River”! The tiny, quaint towns clinging to the sides of steep, flower-strewn hills! The snow-capped mountains! Even so, as soon as I stepped through the doors of Hiša Franko, I understood that it was going to do justice to its breathtaking setting. In the years since they’ve taken over the family business, Roš and her husband, Valter Kramar, have single-handedly put Slovenia on the global map as a culinary destination, highlighting the Soča Valley and telling an edible story with its bounty. A convivial staff welcomes you to the 19th-century building (which also serves as an inn and the home of the chef and her family), offering, if your table’s not yet ready, a glass of Slovenian sparkling wine with the tiny bubbles and crisp finish of a very good Champagne, and approaching you with all the personable professionalism that has become the hallmark of the world’s truly great restaurants. Once you’re ushered in to the warm, red-walled dining room, the party starts in earnest. Wine begins to flow, and a series of small bites lands on your table: a tiny salad of chickweed and green peas sitting atop an airy green cracker smeared with smoked bone marrow; a taco made from kale, with elderflowers and hazelnut miso; a piping hot savory doughnut with a filling of intensely delicious lambs’ brains. When the butter for your spelt-and-whey sour bread arrives, it is covered in bee pollen, which tastes of the essence of springtime. Cuttlefish is shaved in a pile so it resembles lardo and served with fried bread soaked in asparagus “milk.” There is a playfulness to this food that doesn’t detract from its elegance, a lack of ego that allows pleasure to be the defining factor. You get the feeling that Roš is interested in one thing only, and that is delight. The restaurant’s beverage program is a serious strong point, and the wine pairing option will give you a thrilling introduction to the wonders of wines from Slovenia and nearby northern Italy, from small producers of wines made on Rifnik Hill to large-format bottles, like a seriously funky and delicious orange Pinot Grigio from Gravner in Friuli. When Roš appears in the dining room, you can tell where the staff gets their straightforward, friendly attitude. The chef stops by tables with the relaxed humor of an old friend and leads a post-dinner tour of the kitchen and cheese cave with the same affability. Working on this project made me a font of advice, but the advice I find myself shouting the most to family and friends is this: Go to Slovenia! It’s jaw-droppingly magical. And while you’re at it, go eat at Hiša Franko.

  • Plitvice Lakes

Divided into sections of 12 upper lakes, four lower lakes, and a series of breathtaking waterfalls and limestone-and-dolomite cliffs, caves, and rock formations in between, Plitvice Lakes in Croatia is surely one hike you’ll never forget. Don’t veer too far off the beaten path, as the park is also home to bears, wolves and variety of bird species. The biggest waterfall in town, Veliki Slap or the “Big Waterfall,” stands at 255 feet tall and is the largest waterfall in the country.

  • Green Lake, Slovakia

Up in the High Tatras, near the border of Slovakia and Poland, you’ll find an absolute paradise for hikers. Stunning and snow-covered in winter, and lush and warm in summer, it’s the perfect destination year-round. There are heaps of hikes on offer, but the one up to Green Lake is extra special. Plus theres a mountain hut at the top of the trail that serves warm tea, cold beer, and baked goods.

  • Magaro Peak, North Macedonia

Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia is a beautiful place. Warm blue waters lap at small coves, and the coastline is dotted with small towns and dramatic picturesque monasteries. Just strolling around the banks is stunning enough, but if you’re feeling adventurous, head up into the tall hills surrounding the lake. Here you can follow a path along the cliff top. On clear days you can see into Greece, Macedonia, and Albania all at the same time.

  • Julian Alps, Slovenia

You'll find plenty of hikes in this mountainous region to keep you busy, though the trail up to the alpine hut named Koča na Planini pri Jezeru might be the most impressive. Small wooden huts dot the hillside overlooking a deep green lake surrounded by pine trees. It looks like a scene from a fairy tale, and it's often deserted compared to other hikes in the area. Have a typical Slovenian lunch of soup or stew in the hut before you return back to the trailhead.

  • Srđ, Croatia

Dubrovnik is a beautiful old town on the south coast of Croatia. Thanks to Game of Thrones, it has absolutely boomed as a tourist destination and can get super busy, especially in summer. Escape the crowds for an afternoon by hiking up Srđ, the huge hill overlooking the city. There’s sometimes a cable car in operation, but the views are always better when you earn them with a sweaty hike. It’s a great way to see the walled city and the stunning beaches surrounding it.

  • Durmitor National Park, Montenegro

Even in a warm European summer, this mountainous area of Montenegro stays nice and cool. The pine forests give it a wintry feel, as do the looming blue and green mountains that are often a little misty. Many people walk to the Black Lake for an easy day trip, but take it even farther and head up to Jablan Jezero. Here you can hang out by the lake or hike up the cliffs behind it, toward Crvena Greda, to get amazing views.

  • KOD MARKA, SIPAN, CROATIA

'Skip the tourist traps in Dubrovnik and get a boat out to sleepy Sipan island. Right at the tip of the peninsula, at the edge of a sun-scorched horseshoe bay, there’s a tiny restaurant called Kod Marka. There’s just one waiter, only a handful of tables, no sign, no menu – just whatever was plucked fresh out the sea that morning, drizzled with olive oil and lemon and served on a huge silver platter. Paper tablecloths flutter in the salty breeze and delightful owner Dino brings over jug after jug of his homegrown wine. Come off-season, and there’s nothing else here but a few beaten up Citroëns and a pair of old men dozing quietly on a bench nearby.'

  • Sveti Jakov, Dubrovnik, Croatia

Swollen streets, crowded waterfronts, and the air thickened with selfie sticks — that's the Dubrovnik we all know and (try to) love. But just a mile south of town, it's a different world at Sveti Jakov, a calm, pebble-sand beach overlooking peaceful Lokrum island, with views of the Old Town's packed harbor in the distance. What's the catch? You'll face a bit of a hike to get there — either a walk or bus ride to the church at the top, then a 100-plus staircase down the cliff face to reach the beach. On the plus side, there's a little restaurant to refresh you once you're there — plus the Adriatic to wallow in.

  • Krka National Park - Croatia
  • Rovinj, Croatia

Known for olive oil, wine and truffles

  • Prora restaurant @ Hotel Excelsior - Dubrovnik

Amazing ocean views

  • Hiking in Risnjak National Park

While the country's coast may be one of the best places to visit in Croatia for local residents and visitors alike, general interest in the great outdoors has spiked in recent years. Enter Gorski Kotar, Croatia's answer to Switzerland, a forested expanse of mountain wilderness that lies southwest of Zagreb, en route to the coast of Kvarner.

This verdant region has become the "it" destination lately, especially for city dwellers looking for an easy-to-reach pocket of pristine nature. Wolves, bears, and the endangered Eurasian lynx can be spotted roaming through Risnjak National Park. Gorski Kotar also offers a number of chic cabins and lodges to rent, such as the spectacular Casa Nube and the adorable Gorska Bajka. Don't miss the chance to indulge in a meal of wild edibles and game meats at the Vagabundina Koliba (Vagabond's Cabin) mountain hut, where the nettle bread is a real treat.

apr 13 2018 ∞
mar 13 2024 +