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"Hell, I'll kill a man in a fair fight... or if I think he's gonna start a fair fight, or if he bothers me, or if there's a woman, or if I'm gettin' paid - mostly only when I'm gettin' paid." - Jayne, Firefly

"I am like a being thrown from another planet on this dark terrestrial ball, an alien, a pilgrim among its possessors." - Thomas Carlyle

bookmarks:
alexithymia moi
gideon books (2024)
a ~ books (braindump)
travel (current daydreams)
notes (favourites 2024)

Yet To Try - Immediately

  • 4160 Tuesdays - The Dark Heart of Old Havana
    • caramel/orange/bergamot
    • coffee/tonka/jasmine
    • tobacco/musk/vanilla
    • IndieScents, Uncommon Finds
  • Venetian Master Perfumer - Granverde
    • bergamot, lemon, geranium leaves, orange, Siberian pine
    • basil, coriander, thyme, lavender, sage
    • vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, black pepper
  • Atkinsons - Posh on the Green
    • coriander/petitgrain
    • galbanum/geranium
    • vetiver/cedarwood
    • Harrods, Selfridges)
  • Azzaro - Wanted (the bottle is a plus)
    • ginger/lemon
    • cardamom/juniper
    • tonka bean/vetiver
  • Initio - Mystic Experience The Absolutes
    • vanilla
    • coffee
    • musk/patchouli
    • Harrods
  • L'Artisan Parfumeur - Mûre et Musc
    • lemon/orange/basil/mint/berries
    • blackberry/jasmine
    • musks/patchouli/oakmoss
    • Selfridges, House of Fraser, Harvey Nichols, Harrods
  • L'Artisan Parfumeur - Noir Exquis
    • chestnut/orange/walnut
    • orange blossom/coffee/maple syrup
    • tonka bean/heliotrope/woody
    • Harrods
  • Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie eau de parfum
    • gourmand/leather/chypre
  • Miller Harris - La Feuille
    • citrus/tomato leaves/galbanum/blackcurrant/red berries
    • rose/fig/ivy leaves
    • moss/cedarwood
    • Miller Harris
  • Molton Brown Russian Leather eau de toilette
    • birch/leather
  • Ormonde Jayne - Ormonde Woman
    • cardamom/coriander/grass
    • hemlock/violet/jasmine
    • vetiver/cedar/amber/sandalwood
  • Serge Lutens - Arabie
    • candied mandarin peel
    • dried figs/brown dates/cedar
    • Harrods, Selfridges, House of Fraser
  • Tom Ford - Vert des Bois
    • poplar/plum/olive/anise
    • jasmine/mastic
    • woody/tonka bean/patchouli
  • Versace - Versense
    • bergamot/green mandarin/fig
    • jasmine/lily/cardamom
    • musk/cedarwood/olive wood/sandalwood
    • House of Fraser
  • Jo Malone - English Oak & Redcurrant
    • woody, gourmand,
  • Jo Malone - English Oak & Hazelnut
    • woody, gourmand, fresh
  • Jo Malone - Oud & Bergamot
    • woody, citrus
  • Jo Malone - Blackberry & Bay
    • fruity, woody
  • Jo Malone - Basil & Neroli
    • herbal, fresh green, citrus
  • Jo Malone - Wood Sage & Sea Salt
    • woody, fresh, herbal/aromatic
  • Jo Malone - Mimosa & Cardamom
    • aromatic, oriental & fruity
  • Jo Malone - English Pear & Freesia
    • fresh fruity, floral
  • Jo Malone - Earl Grey & Cucumber
    • aromatic, fresh green
  • Jo Malone - Rare Tea Collection
    • fresh green
  • Tokyo Milk - Poe's Tobacco No. 1
    • Tobacco, Tea Leaves, Amberwood & Autumn Apple
  • Captured By Candlelight (Cognac, cinnamon, toffee, fruity notes, beeswax, oak)
  • Flora Psychedelica (Lily, absinthe, rose, lemon petitgrain, jasmine tea, rose, geranium, celery, linden blossom, intoxicating herbs, black pepper, orris, carrot, mushroom)
  • Paris 1948 (Peach, grapefruit, basil, rose, cedarwood, orange blossom, rosewood, honey, oakmoss, hay, musk, labdanum - quintessential chypre)
  • Black Velvet Cafe (Tobacco, woods, coffee, agarwood)
  • Bulletproof by Tokyo Milk (Smoked Tea, Coconut Milk, Crushed Cedar, Ebony Woods)
  • Broken Theories by Kerosene (Blood orange, tobacco, spices, vanilla bean, sandalwood, oud, incense)
  • Arsenic by Tokyo Milk (Absinthe, Vanilla Salt, Cut Greens, Crushed Fennel)
  • Imaginary Authors - Cape Heartache (Douglas fir, pine resin, western hemlock, vanilla leaf, strawberry, old growth, mountain fog)
  • Maxed Out (Rum, coconut, lime, tobacco, coffee, cannabis essential oil, vintage musks, vanilla, cumin, atlas cedar)
  • The Cities | Love & Life Stories sampler set
  • 4160 Tuesdays - Lady Rose Lion (Monkey Unicorn)
  • A City On Fire - Imaginary Authors
    • “When I saw you, all I saw was a swirl of smoke in the streetlight. Elusive. Sinister. Spectacular.” -Machus NOTES: Cade oil, spikenard, cardamom, clearwood, dark berries, labdanum, burnt match
  • Cape Heartache - Imaginary Authors
    • "If you are looking for the pieces of a broken heart, you might try rifling through the twigs and needles on the forest floor." Cape Heartache is the lone American contribution to Philip Sava’s wildly popular series of exploration novels. It is based loosely on an expedition he made to the Pacific Northwest as a teenager in 1881 and is generally regarded as the most candid of his works. Revolving around a homestead he built in a coastal grove of old-growth trees, the novel documents his romance with a young woman who was a descendent of the Nehalem Indian Tribe. Its themes of leaving the familiar and finding comfort and solace in a new place still resonate today. NOTES: Douglas fir, pine resin, western hemlock, vanilla leaf, strawberry, old growth, mountain fog
  • The Cobra & the Canary - Imaginary Authors
    • When a tip from a clairvoyant leads 23-year-old Neal Orris to a rural Connecticut barn housing his deceased father’s secret obsession, a pristine 1964 Shelby Cobra Roadster, it's the getaway ticket he was desperately searching for. After liberating his best friend, Ike, from his dead-end job on the family farm, the two hit the open highway. Aiming for the Palm Springs race tracks, their journey is a blur of seedy motels, cool swimming pools, hot debutantes, cocktails, and cigarette smoke. Each stop finds the friends inventing new pseudonyms and personas for themselves, their innocent game hurtling into the depths of decadence and desolation. WHEN TO WEAR: Hot, hazy weekdays when you can put your life on hold and enjoy a simple luxury like a fast drive in the country. NOTES: Lemon, orris, tobacco flowers, leather, hay fields, asphalt
  • Bullsblood - Imaginary Authors
    • Devante Valéreo was raised in a dusty Spanish village on the Balearic Sea. He fondly recalled going to the bullfights with his father, an ex-picador, and credited those early experiences with inspiring his most popular novella, Bull’s Blood. The book’s lurid tale of seduction garnered obscenity charges against the author. Though the charges were rejected by the court, a ban on the sale of his works persisted for a number of years. A fixture in Barcelona, smoking cigarillos and writing in the cafés and bars into the night, Valéreo disappeared as a fugitive in 1967 after a highly publicized bar scuffle with American sailors, one of whom later died from his injuries. “A man who has killed,” he wrote in Bull’s Blood, “is a man who knows passion.” WHEN TO WEAR: This is a powerful scent for someone who knows what they want. Bull’s Blood is for those nights when you want to take the bull by the horns. NOTES: Patchouli, rose, costus root, tobacco, black musk, bull’s blood
  • The Soft Lawn - Imaginary Authors
    • Claude LeCoq published his first book, The Soft Lawn, in 1916 while still attending Princeton University. A controversial portrait of adolescent upper-class rebellion in New England, the coming-of-age story follows Hampton Perry, a charmingly snotty college tennis champ who, after years of having everything handed to him on a silver platter, finds himself handing it all back. A little known fact about the author: Claude LeCoq wore only seersucker suits, known in that era as the wardrobe of the poor, and it was his gallant presence at high-society dinners and prestigious sporting events that brought the fabric into popularity among the affluent in the ’20s. WHEN TO WEAR: A great leisure fragrance, wear The Soft Lawn on weekends...or anytime you wish it were the weekend. NOTES: Linden blossom, laurel & ivy leaves, vetiver, oakmoss, fresh tennis balls, clay court
  • D.S. & Durga Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake
    • Part of the label’s luxury HYLNDS line (which we've mentioned before), which takes its narrative cues from legends of Iron Age Europe, Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake is a calm, compelling fragrance that I can’t seem to stop thinking about. I don’t know if perfumes should be said to have age, but this one smells like an ancient version of that famed dad-scent by Geoffrey Beene, Grey Flannel. It’s woody, but also primordial and kind of desolate; it smells like something you forgot a long time ago.
    • Inspired by a hike up Slieve Gullion in Northern Ireland, the petrichor-esque quality in Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake is a note described by perfumer David Seth as “fog-on-stone.” I recently was able to speak with Seth a bit more about its creation. “I was trying to take that fresh-wet effect and weave it into the narrative of what happened [on the mountain],” he said. “So I made some steely accords of grey rocks—ambergris, thin woods, and metallic/ozonic aldehydes—and added watery materials like ozonic and radiant materials to them. The whole scent is pervaded by a fresh, wet-ocean-meets-cloud accord.”
    • The net effect here is very wyrd, in the Macbeth-witchy sense of the word, and it's very, very good.
  • Lenore: An Edgar Allan Poe Inspired Perfume (Dragon's Blood, Clove, Oak Moss, Moroccan Rose)
  • Death in the Afternoon: A Cologne Inspired by Hemingway (Bay Leaf, Tobacco, Fennel, Bergamot, Champagne, Sandalwood, Egyptian Musk, Clovebud)
  • Pemberley: A Jane Austen Inspired Perfume (Rosewood, Coriander, Cedarwood, Honeysuckle, Hyacinth, Peony, Vetiver)
  • Sylvia: A Perfume Inspired by The Bell Jar (Cedarwood, Black Tea, Vanilla, Clove, Cassis, Fig)
  • Weird Sister: A Perfume Inspired by the Witches in Macbeth (Apricot, Yarrow, Belladonna*, Labdanum, Wormwood, Dragon's Blood, Dark Amber, Mimosa)
  • VIII: A Tudor Cologne Oil (ambergris, belladonna, clovebud, tobacco, bay leaf, fire, and Peru balsam. )
  • Beatrix: Peter Rabbit (moss, blue spruce, dragon's blood, radish, earth, and chamomile.)
  • 4160 Tuesdays - Lady Rose Lion (Monkey Unicorn)
  • In the Library - CB I Hate Perfume
    • English Novel, Russian & Moroccan Leather Bindings, Worn Cloth and a hint of Wood Polish
  • Winter - CB I Hate Perfume
  • M2 Black March - CB
    • Petrichor. A fresh clean scent composed of Rain Drops, Leaf Buds, Wet Twigs, Tree Sap, Bark, Mossy Earth and the faintest hint of Spring.
  • The Cities | Love & Life Stories
  • Frangipani Gold Shimmer oil
    • Argan oil, coconut oil, mica minerals, flower essences.
  • Frangipani Rose Gold Shimmer Oil by Lucy B.'s
  • O’Unknown by Imaginary Authors
    • Black tea, lapsang souchong tincture, orris butter, Kyoto moss, musk balsam, sandalwood
  • Espresso Royale by Sebastiane
    • Rum, hazelnut, caramel, espresso.
  • Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene
    • Earl Grey tea, lemon, bergamot, honeycomb, tonka bean, caramel, vanilla and waffle cone
  • Bluegrass by Moonshine
    • Fresh-cut field grass, Spanish moss, woodsy amber, peppery spice
  • Bourbon by Hendley Perfumes
    • Bergamot, orange zest, toasted oak, cognac oil, bourbon vanilla tincture, benzoin, tonka bean, labdanum, guaiacwood, castoreum, oakmoss, musks
  • Camel by Zoologist
    • Dried fruits, frankincense, palm date, rose, amber, cedar, cinnamon, incense, jasmine, myrrh, orange blossom, civet, musk, oud, sandalwood, Tonka bean, vanilla, vetiver
  • Hummingbird by Zoologist
    • Apple, Cherry, Citrus, Lilac, Muguet, Plum, Rose, Violet Leaf
    • Honey, Honeysuckle, Mimosa, Peony, Tulip, Ylang
    • Amber, Coumarin, Cream, Moss, Musks*, Sandalwood, White Woods)
  • Civet by Zoologist
    • Bergamot, black pepper, lemon, orange, spices, tarragon, carnation, frangipani, heliotrope, hyacinth, linden blossom, tuberose, ylang-ylang, balsams, civet, coffee, incense, labdanum, musks, oakmoss, resins, Russian leather, vanilla, vetiver, woods
  • Macaque by Zoologist
    • Cedar, green apple, red mandarin, frankincense, galbanum, honey, rosewood, ylang ylang, jasmine tea, cedarmoss, green tea, white oud, musk
  • Santalum Slivers by Kerosene
  • Demeter Thunderstorm
    • unmitigated petrichor
  • CB I Hate Perfume M2 Black March
    • petrichor, grass, resin, bark, mossy earth

Very Soon

  • Acqua di Parma - Colonia
    • Leather orange/lemon/raspberry
    • rose/petitgrain/honeysuckle
    • cedarwood/leather/guaiac
    • Harrods, Harvey Nichols, House of Fraser, Selfridges
  • Annick Goutal – Ambre Fétiche
    • leathery, animalic: labdanum-rich
  • Blood Concept - Red Series
  • B – Wonder Tonka
    • lemon/sichuan pepper/rock rose
    • cocoa/benzoin resin/elemi
    • tobacco/musk balsam/tonka bean
    • Harvey Nichols, Selfridges
  • Comme des Garcons Amazinggreen
    • palm tree/jungle leaves
    • ivy leaves/orris root/coriander
    • gunpowder/smoke/white musk
    • available wherever
  • Donna Karan - Chaos
    • lavender/sage/chamomile/cedar
    • saffron/coriander
    • incense/cardamom
    • Harrods
  • Evody Cuir Blanc eau de parfum
    • powdery leather & butter
  • Thierry Mugler - Angel Muse
    • grapefruit/berries
    • hazelnut/cocoa
    • vetiver/patchouli
  • Tokyo Milk - Paper & Cotton
    • Coriander, White Sage, Birch Wood & Tundra Moss
  • Rome 1963 (Bergamot, chocolate, tuberose, ylang ylang, jasmine, cedarwood, tobacoo, patchouli)
  • London 1969 (Orange, lemongrass, grapefruit, mandarin, cedrat, Moroccan cedarwood, sandalwood, incense, lavender, violet, Indian patchouli, labdanum, musk)
  • Goodbye Piccadilly (Violet, iris, lavender, leather, vanilla, patchouli)
  • Centrepiece (Honey, green tea, vanilla, frangipani, cedar, musk)
  • Old Bourbon by West Third Brand (sandalwood, cedar & vetiver layered with amyris, patchouli, coumarin, citrus peel, benzoin with a hint of Vanilla.)
  • Doe in the Snow (peach and yuzu sorbets, rose, jasmine, leather, oak wood and moss, plus a hint of chocolate!)
  • the dark side by francescabianchiperfumes (Honey, spices, iris, violet, sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver, amber, styrax, incense, patchouli, vanilla)
  • 4160 Tuesdays - The Sexiest Scent on the Planet. Ever. (IMHO)

Sometime

  • Agent Provocateur - Fatale Intense
    • liquorice/dewberry/chili pepper
    • lotus/champaca/rose
    • amber/leather/vanilla
    • House of Fraser
  • Creed - Silver Mountain Water
    • bergamot/mandarin/neroli
    • calone/green tea/neroli
    • sandalwood/musk
  • Donna Karan - Liquid Cashmere Black
    • black cherry
    • rose/jasmine
    • patchouli/sandalwood/praline
  • Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Aqua Universalis
    • lemon/bergamot
    • sweet mock orange/lily of the valley
    • woods
    • Selfridges
  • MEMO Paris Russian Leather eau de parfum
    • fancypants leather & champagne
  • Beast - CB I Hate Perfume
    • roast beef, parsley and herbs, black pepper and spices, smoked woods, patchouli, cedar and tobacco absolute.
  • Eternal Return - CB
    • Eternal Return is the scent of sailing toward the shore. It is a blend of Fresh Ocean Air, Wooden Ship and a faint hint of Cypress Trees growing on the cliff above the water...
  • Fire from Heaven - CB
    • Frankincense, Myrrh, Opopanax, Cedar, Sandalwood, Styrax & Labdanum. But the perfume's scent is subtle. Fire From Heaven is the memory of smoke...
  • Invisible Monster - CB
    • Contains To Yo Ran Orchid, Sumac, Galbanum, Vetivert, Oakmoss, Cedarwood and specially designed accords that capture the smell of the islands in the Susquehanna River.
  • The Library of Fragrance - Sex on the Beach
    • vodka, raspberry liquour, melon liquour, cranberry, fresh pineapple

Perhaps - What's in a name?

  • Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel
  • Anna Sui - Forbidden Affair
  • Jovoy - L'Art de la Guerre
    • calabrian bergamot, granny smith apple, rhubarb
    • lavender, corsican daisy, nutmeg, violet leaf
    • indonesian patchouli, sandalwood, leather, oakmoss
  • Penhaligon's - Lothair
    • grapefruit, fig leaf, pink pepper, juniper, bergamot, cardamom
    • black tea, magnolia, lavender, fig milk, geranium
    • vanilla, cedar, ambergris, musk, oakmoss, wenge wood
  • Serge Lutens - Jeux de Peau
    • barley, wheat
    • Harrods, House of Fraser, Selfridges

Esteemed

  • Jo Malone - Basil Mandarin
  • Tokyo Milk - Let Them Eat Cake No. 11
    • sugar cane, coconut, vanilla orchid, white musk
  • Jo Malone - Pomegranate Noir
    • fruity citrus
  • Donna Karan - Cashmere Aura
    • aldehydes, cassie absolute, musk
  • Kate Spade - Live Colorfully
    • mandarin/water lily/anise
    • gardenia/tiare/coconut
    • amber/musk/vanilla
  • Tokyo Milk - Gin & Rosewater No. 12
    • rosewood, mimosa, mandarin
  • Tokyo Milk - Kabuki No. 9
    • grapefruit, lychee, jasmine

(arch 5.10.19 || Corvidius PC)

jan 19 2018 ∞
may 11 2019 +