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Homeland Security recommends 7 days for survival, but in recent years, some people don't have electricity or heat for up to 3 weeks, so to be really safe - plan for at least 3 weeks.
Note: I have received arguments that boiling for longer than 5 minutes will just waste good water, but 15 minutes is safer to kill Cryptospiridium.
Wheat - 300 lbs.
Rice - 100 lbs.
Beans, Peas, Lentils, 50 lbs. each
Honey or Sugar - 60 lbs.
Salt - 3 lbs. (Get 6 lbs to be sure) (See below)
Cayenne Pepper - 1 large can
Herbal Seasonings
Dried Milk - 80 lbs.
Peanut Butter - 50 lbs.
Dried Fruit
Canned food, or dried (ready to mix) food
Oatmeal - 50 lbs.
Alfalfa Seeds - 10 lbs.
Sprouts (see below)
Canned Sardines, tuna, salmon
If you have a baby, include formula and baby food. If you have pets, you will want food for them as well. Store food needs in waterproof containers, capable of also protecting against insects and mice. Use Steel garbage cans or plastic 5 gallon buckets. The vacuum sealed method is also very good. If you are storing nuts or oatmeal, they smell and taste bad after a while, so they will need to be rotated. For all storing of food, the rule is: use up the old and replace with the new.
Also, buy mice and rat traps and don't forget to use them.
NOTE; I recommend freezing nuts for storage.
Also learn about herbal medicines and if you have space, grow some of your own - most are perennials and once you get the plant growing, its yours for as long as you take care of it.
See: http://www.earthmountainview.com for suggestions on herbs and growing your own food.
In the survival sense, think warm clothing, think fleece.
Those fleece throws (the single blankets) are great gifts, roll up nice and compact and are very useful as blankets, capes, padding for sleeping on the ground, tablecloths or even hung up on a leanto to break the wind.
By the time everyone adds their ideas to your list we will all need a U-haul on the back of that 4 wheel drive vehicle. Hey not a bad idea to learn how to build your own trailer, all you need is a spare axle, couple of wheels, a hitch and some wood. Peace - Marguerite
I bake my own bread and grind my own flour. In some of the jars where we didn't use diatomaceous there is an occasional weevil and I grind it up - if folks eat animals then a bug or two shouldn't be a problem.
Diatomaceous earth is full of minerals and is a safe, non-toxic way to treat your food. You don't want to breathe it because the particles are so tiny but then, you don't want to inhale flour, either. It's real cheap, too.
We use 1/4 cup for a 5-gallon bucket of grain. We half-fill the bucket, sprinkle 1/2 the dust on, put the lid on, roll the bucket all around, take the lid off, fill the bucket with more grain to the top, add the rest of the dust, roll it around and you're done. You can do it in smaller batches, too. In gallon jars and then pour it into the bucket.
An added step would be to re-open and add a small piece of dry ice to the top. (I like to put it on a piece of broken pottery to keep it from "burning" the grain.) Let the lid rest on top while the dry ice sublimates into gaseous carbon dioxide and displaces bug-breathable air. Then seal tightly.
ALSO: ..I suggest sealing your bags, boxes etc. to keep from getting damp, then freezing them for 3 days..it kills the eggs. I have done this with everything I buy..it works. I have used rice, flour, etc. that is months old (re-stocking as I use). I'm sure it will work for animal feed as well.
You can also drop a couple of Bay leaves in since most bugs hate. Bay leaves are good to use in almost any food storage situation
Another good storage trick for grains and legumes is to use oxygen absorber packs that can be purchased wherever food storage supplies are sold. No oxygen = no living things, and no oxidation of the contents or the container.
To avoid 6 legged critters, vacuum seal your food (see Tilia Foodsaver) and store in 5 gallon plastic buckets with the snap on lids. Or, store food directly in the 5 gallon buckets and pay to have the buckets nitrogen injected. Costs a couple of bucks a bucket. Either of these methods will kill existing critters and prevent future contamination.
Second to vacuum sealing, you can use zip-lock bags. Fill the bag, lower it into a sink full of water until the water is just to the zip- lock. Seal the bag. Remove and dry the bag off. The water pressure pushes a lot of the extraneous gases (air) out of the bag.
Rats can, but won't gnaw into the 5 gallon buckets unless they have a reason to, like the odor of of something yummy on the other side. Properly sealed, a 5 gallon buckets should be odorless.
Rats require 3 things to survive, food, water and shelter. Remove any one of these three things and the rat population disappears.
I have used boric acid effectively for years to keep away roaches, along with Roach Prufe. The last place I was in had ants before I brought in food. One place I had and didn't prepare very many meals, had neither roaches nor ants, but I brought in weevils from the store, and they ate everything resembling a carbohydrate.
Here's a great idea for your meat chickens. You might want to consider feeding your chickens nothing but sprouted wheat if you don't free-range your birds. However, free-ranged chickens and their eggs are healthier to eat. Buy wheat and soak it in a bucket of water overnight. Drain off the water (give it to the chickens) and let the bucket sit for 3 or 4 days. Rinse the wheat twice a day. Once the little root pokes out it can be fed to the chickens and will have so much more vibrational energy (or spark of life) and nutrition than the unsprouted wheat kernel had.
Chickens fed only on unsprouted wheat will dress out to about 8 to 9 pounds each--this sounds incredible but it's really true. If you are going to raise chickens for meat it would be interesting to try this method. Chickens fed the regular way average 5 to 6 pounds on average.
The sad truth is that store-bought chicken is mushy and tasteless and of course, you get all the hormones and chemicals the chicken ate. When you taste your first home-raised chicken meat you will be in awe. Chickens raised on the sprouted wheat taste even better.
These days, anything you can get that is organic is healthier than anything you buy in a grocery store. Buying at local farm markets is preferable. Always ask if the food is organic before buying.
Even if you don't eat your chickens this idea can be considered for the "after time" when perhaps you might be scrambling for something nutritious to feed your birds.
59 - SALT: Salt is scarce in wet climates away from the ocean. The only natural source in such places is mineral springs. Vegetarian animals need salt and animals like deer and elk and mountain goats will go to a lot of trouble to get it. Porcupines need even more sodium than most in order to survive all the excess potassium they get from eating pine bark.
Thus, to find salt in the wilderness, find out where the animals get it. I once found what seemed to be too many deer trails in a certain area of forest, and after exploring a bit found that they all converged on a mineral spring. This particular spring was not shown on any geological survey map and was pretty much trampled into a mud-wallow by the deer and elk, but in a pinch a person could dig it out and get salty water. Note it is also a good place to get deer and elk, and maybe indian arrow-heads. Of course some mineral springs have poisonous amounts of minerals like arsenic in them too, so you're taking a bit of a gamble with any non-tested mineral water.
For families with financial constraints buying even very large amounts of seeds to sprout is affordable. You can live entirely on sprouts.
The seeds stay viable for many years and are packed with nutrition and living, vibrating energy for your body. This is a "living" food vs. a dead food. If you have little storage space and few dollars you may want to learn more about sprouting.
Practice now, making and using sprouts. You can do it simply: for alfalfa sprouts (the most common) just use a tablespoon of seeds, soak them in some water in a jar over night. The next day pour off the water. The health food stores have a 3- piece lid kit to screw onto any wide-mouth canning jar. After you pour off the water invert the jar on an angle upside down (I use a little dish to set it in). Rinse those same sprouts twice a day, morning and night. They don't need the sun to sprout.
After 2 or 3 days they will have all sprouted and you can set the jar in a sunny window if you wish to "green" them up for use in salads or eat out of hand. We always drink the rinse water because it's packed with vitamins and minerals. Or use this water to water your plants. Or for your pet's water.
Walton's has a sprout variety pack that's already vacuum packed and has lots of different kinds of sprout seeds. We bought ours back in 1997 and they are still sprouting great.
Some of the bigger seeds will make really big, long sprouts. They taste the best when eaten young, though. Older sprouts tend to taste somewhat bitter. A sprout can actually be eaten anytime the tiny little root appears. We usually wait a few days, though.
It will be fun to learn about sprouts and a great comfort again, if folks want very much to prepare but don't have a lot of money.
62 - more ideas from a reader:
Regarding water: chlorine treatments do not kill Cryptosporidium oocysts. the best way to rid water of these is boiling. Some say 5 minutes, but bringing water to a rolling boil should be enough to kill any organisms in it. Better to live on water with "less oxygen" (which can be re-added by shaking a half-full jug of water for a few minutes) than suffer the effects of an infection.
Also, if you have squirrels, rabbits, chipmunks, or other small, rat sized mammals, a few rat traps could prove invaluable. They are more effective that a dead fall trap, and much lighter (and squirrel with barbecue sauce is dang tasty). Peanut butter is the perfect bait. Also, a high power pellet gun is fairly silent, and will be effective on creatures up to small dogs (when you get hungry they start looking tasty) also works as a deterrent for larger dogs (expect packs of wild dogs in really bad times). Ammo is cheaper even than .22 rounds. Find out about tularemia and bubonic plague (still exists in many parts of North America, especially on small rodents) and how to protect yourself from them. Remember the best way to extract maximum calories from meat, and ensure that it is safe to eat is to boil the heck out of it, split the bones and boil them too, eat the marrow, brains, heart and liver (kidneys are your option: not worth the trouble on smaller animals). As such, expect soup to be your best friend when times are tough.
A few cheap plastic tarps can be invaluable They can serve as makeshift tents, floors, ponchos, camouflage (if they are the right color; can be achieved with spray paint), rain catchers, etc. etc. etc. ad infinitum, ad nauseum, ad absurditum.
First aid: expect medical services to be limited in very bad times. learn the basics of first aid, long term wound care, and as much general medicine as possible now. An extensive first aid kit (see the STOMP portable hospital at www.cheaperthandirt.com as an example) including many bandages (sturdy cloth is best, they can be boiled and reused if necessary) and perhaps some powdered antibiotics, such as tetracycline and erythromycin (in an emergency fish or livestock antibiotics could be used, learn the indications, contraindications and dosages well or you might kill yourself dosages for humans are the equivalent for pigs).
Lastly, remember that if you are planning on traveling somewhere, others will either be there already, or also traveling there (expect mass migrations in rough times). figure out ahead of time how you would like to interact with them (and expect tensions to be high when resources are scarce).
Even more lastly, as the hitchhiker's guide to the galaxy says: "don't panic." Keep your wits about you and think creatively, and you will survive.