from david kibbe's metamorphosis

keywords:

• MAIN CHARACTERISTICS: waist emphasis, feminine, fluid fabrics, draped, shirred and gathered shapes, roundness.
• AVOID: stiff, sharp, horizontal, unstructured, straight, tailored.

yin/yang balance:

• soft yin with a slight yang undercurrent.

shape:

• shapes should be rounded, intricate, and ornate.
• a slight sharpness at the edge or a tendency to the slightly oversized is good.
• AVOID: geometrics and symmetrical shapes.
  • chunky or bulky shapes.
  • sharp, severe shapes.

line and silhouette:

• silhouettes should be hourglass, emphasizing the curves and showcasing the waist.
• the waist should be sharply defined, and shoulders crisply padded.
• tapering at the wrists, hemline, and knee areas.
• lines should be soft, draped, flowing, clingy, ornate, and intricate.

fabric:

• should be lightweight and drapable for soft fluidity (silks, jersey, challis, crepe, handkerchief linen, etc).
• soft textures, a plush pile (suede, velvet, shantung);
• sheer fabrics and shiny fabrics are all excellent.
• fluffy knits (angora, bouele) are extremely effective.
• AVOID: stiff fabrics. heavyweight fabrics. rough textures. dull-finished fabrics.

detail:

• bows, sheer lace, jabots, soft ruffles, and sparkly appliqué are excellent.
• necklines should be soft and draped or shirred and gathered.
• shoulders should be padded but curved. shoulder tucks, gathers, and bouffant shapes are perfect.
• sleeves should be tapered at the wirst; delicate and ornate buttons and trim are advisable.
• waistline should always be emphasized.
• gathers, shirring, and draping at the waist are necessary for softness and intricacy.
• AVOID: plain or minimal detail. sharp or severe detail. extremely oversized, bulky detail. symmetrical, subdued detail. crisp, "perky" detail.

separates:

• should always include an artful blending of plush textures, draped fabrics, and luxurious colors so you never disrupt the soft fluidity of line.
• always avoid any kind of harsh contrast between top and bottom.
• jackets should be short and nipped at the waist. flouncy peplums that flair out or hang down in the back are best. lapels can be very ornate, with scalloped edges, braiding, or bejeweled trim - or slightly pointed and peaked. shawl lapels are also effective. trim should always be ornate.
  • AVOID: severely tailored jackets. unconstructured, boxy jackets. traditional blazer styles. long jackets that hide the waist.
• skirts should be soft and shapely. your version of a "straight" skirt is actually tulip-shaped, with some gather- ing at the waist and a narrow taper at the hem. this type of hemline should be short, no longer than just below the knee.
• the other type of skirt that you wear equally well is a softly flowing skirt with an uneven hem. this will be longer, at least mid calf.
• skirts should have intricate detail, such as draping, shirring, gathers, or bias-cut pieces. trumpets, sarongs, and circles are all good shapes.
  • avoid: severe or straight skirts. tradi- tional tailored styles (a-lines, pencil-slim styles, etc.). wide, shapeless styles. long hemlines (except on uneven hems that drape or flow). sharp pleats.
• pants: should always be soft and draped, showcasing your curvy figure. gathers, draping, or shirring at the waist, and a narrow or tapered ankle. pants should be short (ending at the ankle).

dresses

• should always be feminine and shapely. defined shoulders, waist emphasis, and intricate detail (shirring, gathers, sparkles, appliqué, etc.)
• soft and draped necklines; tapered wrists; and a tapered hemline if short, flared hemline if long. lightweight fabrics with sheen or plushness and luscious colors complete the picture.
• avoid: sharply tailored styles. unconstructed styles. long, "no waist" styles. symmetrical, subdued styles.

color

• bright and lush, emphasizing a eatercolor blend or bright/light motif.
• need vivid color in outfits.
• for pastels, mix them with light accessories.
• dark colors can be too stark unless you break them up with vivid accents, or use them in the evening in very glamorous fabrics with sheen or plushness (charmeuse, satin, lace, or velvet)
  • AVOID: all darks, all neutrals, monochromatic schemes.

accessories

• shoes: strappy pumps with open backs and toes. ornate trim, feminine flats.
  • avoid: basic pumps, angular pumps, chunky styles, plain styles.
• bags: small, rounded shapes. lightweight. fabric bags. delicate shoulder straps.
• belts: whenever possible to showcase waist. soft, supple belts, moderate to wide. ornate and intricate buckles. bejeweled and beaded styles.
• hats: rounded shapes, crisp brims. picture frames. small.
  • AVOID: floppy hats. crisp caps or ethnic hats.
• hosiery: ultrasheer. lacy textures. silk stockings and a touch of sparkly trim can be stunning for everning fun.
• jewelry: your most important accessory. you simply can't wear too much of it and can't do without it. it provides elegance.
• shapes are rounded, swirling, baroque and rococo.
• sparkly materials are essential even for daytime.
  • AVOID: geometrics. avant-garde pieces. chunky pieces. rough, heavy, or ethnic pieces. small, symmetrical pieces. a "no jewelry" look.

hair

• the shape should be rounded, soft, and as full as possible.
• waves, perms, sets, teasing, and the like are all potential pluses for you. just remember to keep the hair soft, never stiff.
• if your hair is long, it should be elaborate and voluminous in a very well-cared-for manner.
• if your hair is on the short side, it should look superstylized and coiffed. the cut will require some layering for curve.
  • avoid: severe styles. geometric cuts. blunt-edged cuts. overly layered hair.