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• Get two small photography lamps - with wide shades to direct the light - and place one on each side. Experiment with the placement of the lights to eliminate as many deep shadows as possible.
• Use a diffuser if the shadows are very heavy.
• Do not use fluorescent or incandescent lights if possible. Use a daylight lamp. If not possible, then be sure to use the white balance in editing to correct the skin tones.
• Clear your space of any clutter so the background is clear. Arrange the photography area so nothing irrelevant shows in the scene.
  • To appear more realistic, choose a background which works with the doll's size so it doesn't appear small compared to its surroundings.
  • Try shooting with a wide camera aperture (f/3.5 or below) -- this will cause the background to be very blurry and focus attention on the doll.
• For a simple shot, lay the doll flat on a large piece of white paper or fabric (make sure it is matte).
• Take the time to experiment with the pose. The right pose can be vital for a photo. Dress the doll in simple clothes and try different poses. Perhaps consider keeping a reference 'library' of posed shots for each doll. Look at other photographers' work for inspiration (both doll and human full-body shots).
• Experiment with the shooting angle. Some dolls look better when shot from above, some from below. (Usually dolls look best taken from straight on or slightly below, not above, however.) Shooting from a side angle can make all the difference. Take plenty of photos, pick the best ones and make notes for each doll for future reference.
• Make the eyes the focus -- have the doll either looking straight into the camera, or glancing off to the side (if the doll is looking only slightly off to the side, it can spoil the 'alive' look). Make sure the eye area is in good focus, and is well-lit compared to the rest of the doll.
• If using a stand, make sure it does not appear in the photo, or edit it out later.
  • If shooting in front of a fabric backdrop, cut a small hole in the fabric at the appropriate height and have the stand behind.
  • For small dolls, try Quake Wax under their feet - used by museums to anchor artifacts.
• Choose clothes that suit the colouring of the doll, and arrange them nicely. If clothes are too large, use small clips/clothespegs at the back to make them tighter.
• Make sure to arrange the hair meticulously, and make sure that none is in front of the face. Out-of-place hair is very noticeable.
  • If the doll has a fringe, part it a little so the eyebrows are visible, as they add a lot of expression to the face.
• To get photos as sharp as possible, time your shots. Press the button while breathing out to eliminate as much movement as possible. Or se a tripod.
• Don't be afraid to take very close up shots and edit them as waist shots, head shots or even extreme close-ups.

making a set

• Create a set with cardboard or wooden wall/s painted white. Make sure it is tall enough so that your tallest doll fits comfortably inside.
  • If you create one with two walls, it will give more of an impression of depth and allow for more versatility with creating scenes. Leave a slight gap (3mm) between the back and side walls to allow paper, fabric etc to be slotted through.
• Use PVA glue to glue the pieces together, with duct tape for support if necessary. Use small triangular pieces on the back and outer side walls as supports to make the walls stay up if necessary.
  • You may want to make a collapsible set if space is an issue. Use duct tape instead of glue. The triangular support pieces can also be attached with duct tape so they can be swung out of the way and the whole set flattened.
• Use a white or light-coloured cardboard background. If the background is patterned, make sure it is a light, neutral colour and not too busy. Also that any patterns are in scale with the dolls and not too large.
• If you have nice patterned backdrops such as dollhouse wallpaper or scrapbook paper, don't glue them onto the backdrop. Attach them at the top with bulldog clips so you can swap them over and preserve them.
  • Glueing them to light cardboard will make them more durable. Make sure at least one edge is meticulously straight, so that it will look good when placed against the floor of the set.
  • You may either want to slot them through the side gap, or fold them so they continue along the side wall depending on the situation. If the paper doesn't sit right when folded, try glueing it to light cardboard.
  • Some scenes, such as outdoor ones, may look better if you gently curve the backdrop around the corner rather than folding it.
• To create a sweep: use a piece of paper or thin cardboard. Attach it to the top of the set with bulldog clips and let it curve down to the front edge of the set. This diguises the corner at the back and creates an 'endless' look which helps to focus attention on the subject.. Use a small weight on the front corners if the paper won't curve nicely. Experiment with different colours of paper.
• Experiment with a draped fabric background. Drape the fabric so it creates lines and depth. Tape it lightly onto the backdrop if necessary. Try different colours, patterns and textures. Make sure to choose a colour that doesn't clash with the doll's clothes. Clothes can be a good source of fabric as well as cut fabric.
• Create a room with windows by getting a loose piece of thin cardboard and cutting 'windows' into it. Use dollhouse window frames, and place paper with outdoor scenery behind them. Slot this into your set.

scenery ideas

• FLOORING: wood; wood veneer; felt for carpet

shooting outdoors

• This is a good option as it's less common to see in doll photography. It's also pleasing to the eye to photograph dolls in natural environments.
• Decide what kind of project you want to do ahead of time, and make sure to bring all the accessories you think you will need (including a stand).
• Use the conditions to your advantage: if it's windy, dress the doll in gauzy outfits and arrange its hair so it's blowing in the wind. Use a heavier stand. If it's cloudy, create a scene where soft lighting and shadows would be appropriate. The photos can usually be saved in editing with saturation and brightness touches.
• shoot from ground level to make the doll seem bigger in its environment. Choose scenery that doesn't give away the scale of the doll (e.g. avoid park benches, people unless far away)
• one technique is to edit the photo so it's a close-up, and blur the background. Or use a wide aperture as above.
• Experiment with using props outdoors as well.

editing

• If the doll has joints, don't crop the photo at the joints. (This goes for any photography.)
• Use white dropper on lightest part of photo, then apply to whole photo.
• Use smart sharpen on close-up images with a lot of detail.

printables

• backdrops & wallpapers
• various accessories

other

• Create a story for the photo -- this will help to bring the viewer in and create interest in the photo. Write a profile for your doll, or even write stories. Use these as inspiration when creating scenes.
• tutorial for weaving miniature baskets