M Y ‍ ‍ R O U T I N E

august 1st: started using cerave cleanser. check in: sep-oct.

weekly:

• chemical peeling (7% AHA)
• clean makeup brushes
• disinfect phone
• wash pillow cases
• wash face towel

ingredient checklist:

• azelaic acid ✓
• ceramides ✘
• retinoids ✓
• niacinamide ✓
• salicylic acid ✓

‍ ‍ ‍

M Y ‍ ‍ P R O D U C T S

products i use: see here

‍ ‍ ‍

I N G R E D I E N T S

see here.

‍ ‍ ‍

A C N E

• can make acne better:
  • sunlight (but not worth it, because it damages skin)
  • washing pillow cases and towels
• can make acne worse:
  • sugar
  • dairy (especially skim milk (Magermilch))
  • vitamin b12 supplements
  • touching your face
• no link to acne:
  • drinking more water
  • greasy/fatty foods

Types of...

• acne scars ↷
  • atrophic scars = punched-out skin
  • hypertrophic scars = elevated skin
  • post-inflammatory erythema (PIE) = red spots
  • post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) = dark spots
  • post-inflammatory hypopigmentation = light spots
• skin conditions ↷
  • 'hormonal' acne (around jawline)
  • comedonal acne (blackheads, whiteheads)
  • fungal acne (needs antifungal medications) (not actually acne)
  • inflammatory acne (postules)
  • nodulocystic acne (deep-seated, painful)
  • rosacea (rashes on nose and cheeks) (not actually acne)

Terms:

• EN <=> DE
  • astringent = Gesichtswasser
  • clay = Tonerde
  • micellar water = Mizellenwasser
• non-comedogenic means that the product does not clog pores, so they are good!
• serum = lightweight product with higher concentration of ingredients than moisturizers
• toner/tonic = water-based lotion, looks and feels like water, is a primer and hydrates

Misc.:

• chemical exfoliants (to gently dissolve dead skin cells, 1-2x a week, instead of physical peeling!)
  • AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) smooth and soften skin, reduce wrinkles, make you sun sensitive! (e.g. glycolic acid, lactic acid)
  • BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) useful for rough skin and acne (e.g. such as: salicylic acid (daily))
• cleansers
  • foaming cleansers seem to remove oil better than other
  • use gel-based, because they contain more acids than cream-based ones
  • best ingredients against acne: salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide (2.5%, more not necessary) (best of inflammatory acne, not blackheads etc), sulfur
  • CeraVe Acne Control Cleanser (2% Salicyclic Acid) = "Porentiefe Reinigung" - can be drying
  • CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser (~1.5% Salicyclic Acid) = "SA Glättende Reinigung" - less drying
• retinoids/retinol
  • most forms break down in the light, so don't use them in the morning (unless the product says it's okay)
  • TO DO : RESEARCH
• microneedling
  • = tiny needles into the skin for controlled damage to activate wound healing. it induces collagen production & helps products get into the skin better
  • dermarollers cause more trauma than stamping, do not use deep (>1mm) dermarollers
• black dots on nose: just fix with the usual stuff (salicylic acid, niacinamide, etc.). if there is a lot of build-up use a pore strip (not more often than 1x a month)
• moisturizer
  • gel-based might work better than lotions, creams or ointments
  • use "oil-free" or "non-comedogenic".
  • we use moisturizer because many acne treatments (e.g. salicylic acid) can dry out and inflame the skin, which (unmoisturized) can make acne worse.
• sunscreen
  • it helps if they have niacinamide in it
  • types: chemical (less greasy), mineral (less irritating)
  • use chemical (not mineral) sunscreen, because it is less greasy
• mix or don't mix?
  • caution:
    • retinoids + vitamin c
    • retinoids + salicylic acid
    • retinoids + AHA
    • adapalene + benozyl peroxide (BPO)
  • never mix:
    • retinol + benozyl peroxide (BPO)
    • vitamin c + hypochlorous acid
    • vitamin c + copper peptides
  • vitamin c + any acid (e.g. salicylic acid, azelaic acid) = ??? (to research)

‍ ‍ ‍

Links:

• doctorly: great youtube channel by dermotologists with many product recs
  • skinpedia: their website
• skin care guide

‍ ‍

‍ ‍

➙ hair care ┊ ➙ nail care