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- aha (alpha hydroxy acids: glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, tartaric)
- benefits: chemical exfoliation, stimulates cell renewal, brightens skin, improves texture and discoloration, hydrating (especially lactic and mandelic)
- notes:
- work best at low ph (3–4)
- increase sun sensitivity → always wear spf
- mandelic = gentler, great for sensitive skin
- glycolic = stronger, penetrates deeper
- avoid in the same routine as retinoids or pure vitamin C if skin is sensitive
- use: 1–3x/week depending on tolerance
- arbutin
- benefits: gentle skin-brightener, reduces hyperpigmentation and uneven tone
- notes:
- works well with niacinamide, vitamin c derivatives, and aha
- safer and gentler alternative to hydroquinone
- azelaic acid
- benefits: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, evens and brightens skin tone, mild exfoliation, helpful for rosacea, reduces redness, calms sensitive skin, helps with acne and hyperpigmentation
- notes:
- optimal ph: 4–5
- safe for sensitive skin, pregnancy, and breastfeeding
- can be used am or pm
- compatible with most actives
- needs consistent use for 8–12 weeks to see results
- use: can be daily. introduce gradually
- benzoyl peroxide
- benefits: antibacterial against acne-causing bacteria, reduces inflammation, prevents clogged pores
- notes:
- can be drying and irritating → start with lower concentrations
- may bleach fabrics
- often used in combination with salicylic acid or retinoids (alternating routines)
- bha (salicylic acid)
- benefits: penetrates pores, unclogs blackheads, reduces oil and breakouts, anti-inflammatory, exfoliating
- notes:
- oil-soluble, ideal for oily/acne-prone skin
- optimal ph: 3–4
- less photosensitizing than AHAs, but SPF still recommended
- can be combined with retinoids but may increase irritation
- use: use first, daily or every other day
- hydroquinone
- benefits: potent skin-lightening agent for hyperpigmentation, melasma, and dark spots
- notes:
- usually recommended for short-term use (up to 4–6 months)
- may cause irritation and rebound pigmentation if overused
- often combined with retinoids or mild steroids in prescription treatments
- peptide
- benefits: boost collagen and elastin production, improve skin firmness, hydrate, help repair barrier
- notes:
- compatible with almost all ingredients
- ideal in anti-aging and barrier-repair routines
- pha (polyhydroxy acids: gluconolactone, lactobionic acid)
- benefits: gentle exfoliation, antioxidant, humectant, improves texture, suitable for sensitive skin
- notes:
- larger molecules = slower penetration = less irritation
- can be combined with retinoids and other acids
- rose hip seed oil, linolei acid
- benefits: rich in essential fatty acids and antioxidants, hydrates, supports barrier, helps fade scars and pigmentation
- notes:
- suitable for most skin types (esp. dry and sensitive)
- linoleic acid can help balance oil production in acne-prone skin
- vit a/retinoid
- benefits: stimulates collagen, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin tone, helps with acne, speeds cell turnover, fades dark spots
- notes:
- start gradually (1–2x/week, then increase)
- always pair with spf during the day
- may cause dryness, irritation, or initial purging
- best with niacinamide and peptides
- first times with moisturizer, then after toner
- promote cell turnover
- reduces fine lines/wrinkles
- use: use only at night, don't use in the same routine with aha/bha or pure vitamin c (alternate days)
- safe/for beginners: hpr, granactive retinoid, retinyl palmitate, bakuchiol
- vit b3 (niancinamide)
- benefits: strengthens skin barrier, reduces redness, regulates oil, improves elasticity, fades spots, antioxidant
- notes:
- optimal ph: 5–7 → highly compatible with other actives
- reduces irritation from acids and retinoids
- may cause temporary flushing in some people
- vit c (l-ascorbic acid)
- benefits: antioxidant, protects from environmental damage, brightens skin, boosts collagen, evens skin tone
- notes:
- pure form is unstable → best in am with spf
- optimal ph: 2.5–3.5
- may irritate sensitive skin
- works best with vitamin e + ferulic acid
- avoid in the same routine as aha/bha
- vit c derivatives (sap, map, etc)
- benefits: similar to pure vitamin c but more stable and less irritating, still brightens and offers antioxidant protection
- notes:
- can be used am or pm
- less ph-sensitive, more compatible with other actives
jan 6 2015 ∞
aug 12 2025 +
aug 12 2025 +